When in Rome

I returned from Rome feeling like a romantic poet having returned from the Grand Tour. Before it was an Amazon show featuring former Top Gear presenters, the "Grand Tour" was where 17th,18th and 19th century elites took trips around the continent to immerse themselves in foreign culture, visit ancient ruins and admire renaissance art. This was largely the purpose of my visit, albeit on a lower budget. Frankly, 21st century Rome doesn't have a lot going for it. It's a city which seems to take no pride in itself, full of litter and graffiti with a disorganised road system which leads to crossing the street leaving you fearful for your life and with a constant sound of car horns blaring in the background. It's also become such a tourist site and I know that I was part of the problem but a place loses something when it's main purpose for existence is tourism. The artist AJC Hare summed it up well back in 1871: "Nothing can be more depressing to those wh...